Rising above the waters of the Gulf like the billowing sail of a dhow, the Jumeirah Burj Al Arab has been a symbol of Dubai since it opened in December 1999. It’s easy to be a little snooty about “the Burj”, to write it off as being completely OTT and to resist the bling. But for those who embrace its 1,790 sq m of 24-carat gold, aquariums in the lobby and record-breaking stunts on its helipad, there’s a lot to love. It’s a surprisingly warm, welcoming and laidback place where the staff really lean into the holiday vibe, handing out bunches of flowers and framed photos to beaming…
